'The Butcher's Daughter' | The Jewish Week | Food & Wine

'The Butcher's Daughter'

'The Butcher's Daughter'

La Fille du Boucher. Via facebook.com

French kosher cuisine is as good as you'd expect it to be.

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Jews have been a vibrant part of French society for centuries. Immigrants from all over the Ashkenazic and Sephardic world — the Middle East, the Iberian Peninsula, Central and Eastern Europe — have each contributed their own special energy and traditions into creating a lively and dynamic culture that also incorporates a French perspective. This includes food, where inventive cooks have adapted typical French dishes, which largely depends on non-kosher ingredients and mixtures, and thereby created a unique culinary tradition compatible with the strictest rabbinic standards. The results can be experienced in many of the fine kosher restaurants found in Paris.

One example is La Fille du Boucher, or The Butcher’s Daughter, located in the 17th arrondissement. Known for its grilled meats, the menu includes such delights as steak tartare, foie gras, hamburger, Entrecôte and “Le steak mignon sauce béarnaise.” It opened in 2011 with an ambiance (including a zinc bar) meant to evoke a brassiere of the 1930’s, and the meat is sourced from the family butcher shop.

Recently, we got a chance to taste the restaurant’s house wine, a Bordeaux blend. The Butcher’s Daughter Reserve 2012 ($18) is medium-bodied with notable but not overwhelming tannins that give it the structure to, not surprisingly, pair well with steak, brisket and other such fare. It opens with blueberry and cassis aromas that extend nicely into blackberry, raspberry and bits of chocolate with some interesting spice and vanilla during the finish. Very quaffable.

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